Hierapolis & Pamukkale Travertines

We didn't intend to go to Hierapolis & Pamukkale twice in the last four months. We took a family trip in March and it was included in our Ephesus tour. Then our parents came to visit three months later and took the same itinerary. So ta-da!The thing is, Hierapolis & Pamukkale are three hours away by car from Kusadasi, the sea side town where we spent the night after Ephesus.I recommend taking a plane instead from Istanbul to the Denizli airport and get picked up by your tour service, ours was Road Runner Travel.  The three-hour car ride is excruciating, not because the roads are bad or the van was horrible, but because it was so long. I spent six hours of my life total going to Pamukkale and Hierapolis on those two trips. 🤦🏻‍♀️

What's so important about it

Most Greco-Roman cities I've been to are built near the water. This one isn't. Hierapolis was founded by Attalid kings from Pergamum around the 2nd century BC. And the natural hot springs were used for scouring and trying wool. This region has a culture of textile production, PAMUK means "cotton" and KALE means "castle" hence the name, Pamukkale.The Romans took over around 133 BC, and Hierapolis became a place of importance in the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD. You'll see the baths, temple ruins, a necropolis, but the most notable one is the amphitheater.It might be more significant for Christians, because there's history between Hierapolis and the apostle Philip. Your tour guide will tell you where he was martyred---and there's an additional ticket to go to that area---but historical accounts aren't actually clear on whether he was martyred or died a natural death.According to UNESCO, the ancient citizens of this city believed in the healing powers of the thermal water, and this hydrotherapy accompanied religious practices, which developed alongside local cults.

The Temple of Apollo, which includes several Chtonian divinities, was erected on a geological fault from which noxious vapours escaped. The theatre, which dates from the time of Severus, is decorated with an admirable frieze depicting a ritual procession and a sacrifice to the Ephesian Artemis. The necropolis, which extends over 2 kilometres, affords a vast panorama of the funerary practices of the Greco-Roman era. 

Why you should go to Hierapolis & Pamukkale

It's a unique place to experience the natural landscape of Pamukkale and the ancient culture of Hierapolis. But if I'm being honest, I liked Ephesus better. The ancient buildings were better preserved, and there were a lot more things to see. I would suggest spending more time in Pamukkale than in Hierapolis. Make sure you tell your guide that.Personal story: On our second trip, we left our parents with the guide and went to swim in the Cleopatra Pool. This hot spring pool is said to be a wedding gift by Marc Antony to Cleopatra. It's unconfirmed whether she was actually in the area, but that's what the pool is called.We were preparing to go to Pamukkale after the pool when THE GUIDE WOULDN'T LET US. He got us a van to bring us NEAR Pamukkale and take pictures. My mom was so upset because it was her birthday. She didn't come all this way to just SEE Pamukkale from afar. I don't know why he was rushing us when we had plenty of time before our flight. It was horrible. My poor mom. 😢

Travel Tips

The main challenge of Hierapolis & Pamukkale is biological pollution. Constant erosion threatens the ancient Roman marble elements. The authorities have closed off the terraced basins to let them recover from the volume of tourists.

Tip #1: Wear comfortable clothes

Wear clothes that are easy to change in and out of. You might not intend to get wet, but you will. Shoes aren't allowed down in the travertines, so be careful going down the calcified rock.

Tip #2: Hold on to your kids

This goes without saying for ANY parent, but if you have one or more kids, keep them close. The water is nice and warm, but any slip could result in very serious injuries. One of the people we were traveling with had his son in a hiking carrier, and he slipped and cut his toe.We gingerly waded through the water in the travertines while carrying our little one. While in the Cleopatra Pool, we let her walk on top of the marble columns in the water.

Tip #3: Properly time your visit

Don't let your guide tell you don't have enough time. You don't want to rush through Pamukkale only to spend two hours waiting for your flight's counter to open in the airport. Take our advice, insist on MORE TIME in Pamukkale.

Tip #4: Take the golf cart

Instead of walking around Hierapolis, spring for the golf cart for an extra 100 TL per hour. You'll get driven around and will have saved energy for Pamukkale.

Tip #5: Take a million photos

Hierapolis and Pamukkale are hard to get to, so take as much photos as you need. Take them at the amphitheater, the Cleopatra Pool, and the Travertines. We don't know how much longer we've got them.Have you been to Pamukkale or are thinking of going?

Update on the tour guide mess:

We called Road Runner Travel and complained about the guide. They were very apologetic and wanted to help, but at that point we didn't see anything else that could be done. Maybe in the future we'll be more discerning about our schedule and guides.