Visiting Beijing's 798 Art Zone
There's this amazing place in Beijing called the 798 Art Zone. We've seen it multiple times in different seasons, but with a little baby we never quite made the most out of it, until now. It's a tad easier when your tiny human is walking and talking and doesn't need to nurse every five minutes. In a country that restricts so much, 798 Art Zone is an outlet for expression. I love it because it's got amazing architecture and a rich history that involves the creativity, hard work, and painstaking cooperation of experts from three superpowers.Sometimes it's also referred to the 798 Art District. It's this huge complex in Dashanzi in Chaoyang, Beijing. We frequent it because it's near the Oasis International Hospital where Allegra gets her check-ups (and the head of pediatrics is a Filipina doctor!).
What is the 798 Art Zone
The compound was a military-industrial project of the Soviet Union and China originally named "Factory 718". In the 1950s, the two countries signed a 30-year alliance treaty, this being one of many products of that. However, China needed more modern electronic components and the Russians suggested their own supplier from East Germany.
A Chinese delegation was sent to Berlin, and both German and Russians consultants worked on the project.But too many chefs spoil the brühe (broth), and the Germans chose a minimal, Bauhaus-style design over more elaborate Soviet style, a cause of many disputes between the experts. In true German style, form followed function.
These large indoor spaces were made to let in the maximum amount of natural light. The windows were all designed to face north to capture diffused sun light with no harsh shadows.
Sidebar: Most painters choose studios with a north light for this specific reason. Juan Luna's studio in Paris was like this according to Ambeth Ocampo. I'm not a painter, but if (when?) I get a prototyping studio I'll take this into consideration. A lady can dream.
Construction on this compound was tumultuous, the German's wanted their high but expensive quality standards for buildings and machines, and the Russians called it "over-engineering". The Germans wanted the building to withstand earthquakes of magnitude 8, while the Chinese and Russians wanted to settle for 7.
The work tally on this project was more than 100 East German experts, with 22 factories supplying the construction, and disputes costing a six-month delay in the project. Fully funded by the Chinese, the project cost them 147 million RMB, or USD 17 million today. It was finally opened in late 1957, and became known as one of the best in China and defined as the model socialist factory. I
t offered good social benefits to it's more than 10,000 workers, like housing, extracurricular activities, German-made motorcycles, literary clubs, and a hospital. It was an industrial ecosystem capable of recycling products from the manufacturing process.
And now it's a place where hipsters go for Instagram-worthy shots! It's amazing, and we love coming here to appreciate the design, history, and now the art that keeps this place alive.
How to get there
Three ways to get there:
Take a Didi (Chinese Uber). Key in "798 Art" in search and it will autocomplete. I don't meant to sound curt, that really is the easiest way. It'll cost around RMB 30 one-way from the Beijing CBD, like where we live in Shuangjing.
Take Line 14 from Shuangjing's Jiulongshan Station, get off at Jiangtai station and walk (A LOT) for about ten minutes.
Take Line 10 from any subway stop on Beijing's East 3rd Ring Road, get off at Sanyuanqiao, cross the street and wait for the 403 bus. Get off at Dashanzi after five stops.
What's there now
Many artists call the 798 Art Zone home. There are tattoo shops, leather stores, and metalwork studios.The artwork is vibrant and lovely. And there are lots of things to see. But it won't look like this for long. Local artist studios have been replaced by commercial galleries and shops. I can appreciate the convenience of Starbucks, but I don't want to see them in a place like this. Just like I didn't want to see them peeking out of an old Beijing hutong street.It's one of Beijing's tragedies, and the price of progress. Because space in the city is in high demand, rent has skyrocketed (even ours!), and has led to massive demolitions. One of those affected is this factory complex.Artists have been beaten and forcibly evicted. The Guardian reports that one artist has been evicted four times from his studio. Local artists have spent improving these studios; and even though they are under lease, they are being asked to leave.Commercial galleries have begun taking over the space. Last year, Hyundai opened an "innovation center" in the complex.
How to make the most of your visit
There's no guarantee the 798 Art Zone will be here forever. Demolitions have already begun in some parts of the complex to make way for commercial and residential areas.
Find a local artist to support. There's not a lot of them, but you can find one for sure. My friend got a portrait made when he visited.
Don't buy from the chain restaurants. We ate at a local noodle joint that's actually pretty good.
Dress for the season. We went in the tail end of Spring, right when Summer arrived. I had rain boots on, and Paolo had slippers. It was humid and rainy, so we made arrangements for both.
Bring your own water. I know, I know. I keep saying that but it's important! The more water you bring, the less you'll spend at the 7-11.
Beyond The Great Wall, the 798 Art Zone is a must-see because it was a home for artists, people who wanted to escape government monitoring.In Mao Zedong's time, art was just a tool for propaganda. But with the rise of moderate politicians, artistic freedom flourished. Sadly, the 798 Art Zone has moved from production by local artists to the consumption of global goods.We were happy to see it and enjoy the creativity, but we also can't help but feel sad for its future. Please enjoy the rest of the photos from our visit below.Have you been here, or are planning a trip soon?
