Exploring Old Beijing Through A Hutong
A hutong is this wonderfully historic lane and courtyard home reminiscent of Old Beijing. These hutong courtyards surround the Forbidden City, and you get a sense of what life was for ancient Beijing just by walking around them. Leading into one-story homes, the dusty brick walls highlighted by bright red doors intrigued me as I wondered how people could ignore neighbors in such close proximity.I've seen at least three properties in our neighborhood that have been torn down. Heck, I can't even keep track of what's right outside our building. It used to be a convenience store, now I think it's a char siu (barbecue) place. Who knows what it'll be in three months! Here's an article from The Atlantic on the disappearing hutongs
Eminent domain is pretty brutal here in China. Many people from surrounding provinces relocate to the Capital, which fuels demand for real estate. But it's not always affordable even for locals. What the government's been doing is subsidizing housing and continuing to develop real estate. It's a regular investment move for a young, working couple to buy a flat in the city and rent it out, while they live an hour away.Matter fact, it's such a big investment move that couples are getting DIVORCED. Not because they couldn't settle differences, but because there are first-home purchasing privileges. Banks give higher down payment requirements to would-be second homeowners. Hence, a divorce is arranged, they buy a second house, and ride the investment wave. Ch-ching!
Hutongs, though, are quickly becoming extinct. My friend Julie, who's French and has lived in Beijing for seven years, calls a renovated hutong home. She loves it! She has since moved to Manila with her husband. I was going to ask her if I could take over her home but Paolo said they have little to no heating in the winter. I prefer not being miserably cold.
Military Administrative Zone right in the hutong. The government doesn't allow drones in these areas.
I think the best way to explore a hutong is on foot, but it got too warm that we ended up renting some bicycles.
We had a lovely time walking around Nanluogoxiang, but rolled our eyes when we saw a Starbucks hidden by an entrance. Gentrification stops for no one.
An elderly man came out from one of the hutongs properly dressed with a bowler hat and a cane. He walked down the same path we did, only he stopped by every house to greet whomever was sitting outside. They exchanged pleasantries, some telling stories quite emphatically. It made me think of how close Old Beijing must have been. Family is never too far away, what with hutongs connecting to other hutongs forming somewhat of a communal living labyrinth, if you will.
Beijing had more than 3,000 hutongs in the 80s, but these had to give way to progress. Sadly, now less than 1,000 remain.
Here we are in Beijing, 3,000 kms away from our families. Trying to make a living and navigate through a city and learn about a culture that has had such an impact on the world. We're making our own little home here, raising a family. It's not easy but at least we're together despite not knowing what culture our child will grow up in and we, like the hutongs, are quietly tolerating gentrification.
We think the Starbucks in a hutong is a bit much, but what do you think of gentrification?